Goodyear Welted Construction: The Makings of a Great Shoe
Dwarves will publish Goodyear Welted shoes this week. We want to Introduce this process to our customers. Many customers email us that they want genuine leather sole shoes and sewn shoes. So we try to use Goodyear Welted process to meet their needs.
As you may suspect, the name comes from Charles Goodyear who patented the machine capable of sewing around the perimeter, replacing the need for hand-sewn welts. These days, it is rare to see shoes with Goodyear welting because of the time and difficulty, and the fact that it requires skilled labor.
Goodyear Welted Construction:
(1, Insole: Soft Calf Leather, Enhanced Comfort; 2, Bottom: Thick Cowhide, Enhanced Wear Resistance; 3 Midsole: Cow Leather, Increase The Stability Of Sole Structure; 4, Welt: Using A Welt, Stitching Holds The Material Firmly Together, 5, Cork Footbed: Let Shoes Be Elastic And Moisturewicking; 6, Stacked Leather Heel: Several Thick And Stiffer Cow Leather Stacked, And
Rubber Sheet To Increase Wear Resistance; 7, Metal Spring: It Acts As A Buffer When Walking.)
Disadvantages: Cost and Because stitching is done on the outside of the sole, Goodyear welted shoes tend to be bulkier and less sleek.
Goodyear Welted Shoe Benefits:
Because the leather of Goodyear welted shoes has to be stitched to the welt as closely to its edge as possible, shoemakers have to use quality calf hide, because working with an inferior calf hide will surely cause it to break along the seam. This means that purchasing a pair of Goodyear welted shoes will ensure you that the upper leather is of good quality and ready to be used for an extended amount of time.
Everyone who knows about Goodyear welted shoes can instantly recognize their unique design, where the upper, in correspondence of the stitching, curves inwards in respect to the edge of the sole. This particular feature makes these shoes easily recognizable by all Goodyear welted shoe lovers.
3. Water Resistance
The seams are made on the outer part of the sole (do not touch the foot), which maximizes the water resistance of the shoe. By comparison, in Blake’s shoe construction, which is often used in the manufacture of formal shoes, the seam directly connects the outsole to the insole. Therefore, when sewing Blake shoes, you can feel the seam inside the shoe, and moisture can get inside the shoe more easily (through the seam).
The Goodyear Welt shoe has a small gap between the insole and the outsole which shoemakers usually fill with cork or felt. These natural materials are lightweight, well insulating, adapt to the shape of the foot and, most importantly, allow the foot to breathe. That’s why the longer you wear Goodyear welted shoes, the more comfortable they become.
The Goodyear welt construction makes it very easy to resole a shoe, thus extending its lifespan. The welt acts as a buffer between the insole and the outsole, so it’s quite easy to remove the old sole and attach the new one. Removing the old sole and attaching a new one can be done by machine or by hand.
Everyone worth to have a pair of Goodyear Welt shoe in your collocation!
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